NYCkayaker Trip report: Manhattan Circumnavigation 8/12/06

[Jeff Hoyer]

First off: a great thanks to Jerry Blackstone for tirelessly organizing this
weekend¹s trips and to Steve Blumling for the thankless task of ³herding a
group of cats.²
 
The day dawned sunny and pleasant with dozens of paddlers from several
locales assembling at the Downtown Boathouse (which isn¹t really downtown
anymore). There were sizable local contingents from The Yonkers Paddling and
Rowing Club, the Sebago Canoe Club, visiting guests from the Chesapeake
Paddlers Association and Fort Lauderdale¹s Blazing Paddles, as well as
several non-affiliated folks.
 
After a pre-trip briefing lead by Steve ³Admiral² Blumling, 34-paddlers hit
the water (fortunately upright) and we were off. A group from Yonkers and
Englewood that had paddled down to rendezvous with us was first to depart as
the rest of us fiddled with our gear. Everyone else was underway in a
curtain of spray by 8:30 am., a bit behind schedule but well within a safe
window for the currents. Jerry Blackstone who spent days (weeks?) organizing
this extravaganza graciously decided to postpone his own trip until the next
day and serve as land-based support. To my knowledge, this is a first for
Manhattan circumnavigation.
 
Starting from midtown instead of farther downtown at the former DTBH meant
that a longer segment of the trip had to be paddled against the current.
However, the group logged a steady 3-4 kts. down to The Battery, so either
the current was weak or we were all psyched. The tradeoff with this new
starting point is that we would not have to deal with the cruise ship and
heavy ferry traffic on the afternoon return. This is a definite plus in my
mind. 
 
We all met up at South Cove so that we could transit The Battery and Staten
Island Ferry terminal areas in as organized and safe a manner possible.
Although there were Liberty Island ferries arriving and departing during our
passage, there was never a moment of confrontation and we were quickly and
safely into the East River.
 
As usual the East River flood current was cooking. A decision was made early
on to cross the river and paddle up the east side along the Brooklyn and
Queens shores. This was a first for me.
 
As we made our way underneath the Brooklyn Bridge the conditions became a
little dicey and the banter ceased as the multidirectional chop had it¹s way
with us. The combination of the 10-15 Kt north wind and the north-flowing
current of around 3-knots kicked up some whitecaps which reflected off the
seawall and mixed with the wake waves. I thought I saw some white knuckles
reflected in the sunlight (my own?) but everyone persevered until Poorhouse
Flats (in between Bushwick Inlet and Newtown Creek) where we once again
formed a tight group. After a mere 2 hours and 53 minutes we were all piled
onto the beach at Hallet¹s Cove for a visit to the Socrates Sculpture Park
and lunch. 
 
After an hour and a half break during which we could see the roiling froth
of Hell Gate evolve into docility, we were once again mounted for the charge
up the Harlem River. Well actually it was more like a slog after flying up
the East River. Fortunately it was not as hot as usual for this time of year
and having waited for the current to change worked in our favor.
 
We stopped once again at the Peter Sharpe Boathouse to enjoy the newly
developed park which is beginning to take on the ambience of a Japanese
Garden. In fact circumnavigating Manhattan is becoming downright civilized.
Perhaps next year we could have a catering support boat serving sushi from
the swim deck. Just a thoughtŠ
 
After a pleasant 45 minute break we hit the river once again for the brief
leg to the Dyckman Street Marina. Timing the entrance into the rather small
gap between the pier and rocks at Dyckman St. can be a bit tricky. But our
guests were more than up to the task and there was hardly a wobble before we
landed amongst the glass shards at ³Tinkle Beach² to enjoy the hospitality
of the marina. Thanks to the Inwood Canoe Club for inviting the group to
their clubhouse just a short way down the river.
 
We were off again after an hour of lounging and chatting. By this time the
group was beginning to get a little fragmented between those who were
content to tarry and others who were eager to get on with it. There was some
concern that some of the paddlers might pass too close to Riverbank State
Park but all managed to complete the trip unscathed between 6:00 and 6:30
pm. 
 
And now for the numbers.
 
Leg 1 DTBH-Hallets Cove: 11.165 nm., 2:53 ET, 3.88 kts. Ave. Sp.
Leg 2 Hallets Cove-Peter Sharp: 5.8 nm., 1:39 ET, 3.5 kts. Ave. Sp.
Leg 3: Peter Sharp-Dyckman St. 2.6 nm., 0:35 ET, 4.4 kts. Ave. Sp.
Leg 4: Dyckman St.-DTBH, 6.6 nm., 1:22 ET, 4.8 kts. Ave. Sp.
 
Total distance: 26.2 nm. Total paddling time: 6h29m
 
Bear in mind that the speed of the first leg is very much skewed by the fact
that we stopped at least three times. In fact the speed readings through the
lower East River were as high 8.5 kts.
 
On a personal note: this was my seventh circumnavigation (4 times with
paddling groups and 3 time escorting the Manhattan Island Marathon Swim).
The first time I was afraid of what might happen to me and grateful to
finish. Now it is more routine, but never without excitement and
uncertainty. No matter how scientifically one approaches the currents and
timing, there are just two many variables for one to become complacent.
 
As an added challenge, this was my first long trip in the new boat I
recently purchased. I have forsaken my beloved Feathercraft Kahuna for a
Valley Aquanaut RM. It¹s longer, much quicker to edge and lean, but very
solid in the water. My custom in rougher water with the Kahuna was to use
forceful body movement and a shorter aggressive stroke to keep on course. I
am now learning to be more delicate with body movements (after nearly
dumping during my pre-purchase demo ride!) and have found that lengthening
my stroke yields much more speed. I¹m sure it will take more adjusting, but
my initial impression of this boat is very favorable.
 
On this trip the Aquanaut handled everything with ease, but the ³seat-of the
pants² sensations were often quite different that my previous experience.
However, after a few uncomfortable moments I realized that if I just relaxed
in my seat, enjoyed the scenery and let the boat show me what to do,
everything would be just fine.
 
It was a pleasure paddling with and meeting everyone on this trip. I hope
today¹s sequel was also safe and enjoyable.